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Frequently Asked Questions If you cannot find the answer to your question here, please send an email to Kenny at khill@hillguitar.com. |
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FINISHES - FRENCH POLISH
What is the best way to clean fingerprints from a French polish top?
A clean soft cloth will generally do the job on fingerprints or general schmutz. Our set-up department uses turtle wax or most any other guitar or violin polish - a small amount on a dry cloth, rubbed by hand should do.
Two years from the date on the label - that's how long the French polish will take to finally set up, not be so soft and subject to dings and marring.
How about French polish and heat?
In really hot weather you just have to be extra careful. Over time the French polish becomes more durable, but anything over 100 degrees fahrenheit always involves risk. The worst conditions are the inside a car, where the greenhouse effect can really heat up. Even direct sunlight hitting a part of a black guitar case can really heat up that spot. The trunk can be a little better, but check the guitar after a short while to see if it's heating up. Or just carry it with you. The worst is when the finish sticks to the fur in the case. It looks TERRIBLE, but it's not really as bad as it looks. French polish is easy enough to fix when you know how, but few people really know how. When you have questions, problems or concerns - drop us a line or email. You can always send it back here for touch up.
I have a Rodriguez model with french polish and I put a big fingernail mark in it just below the soundhole. I have a lacquer touch-up kit and just wondered if I could use it.
Not a good idea. Lacquer and shellac (French polish) are two distinctly different substances, non compatible and unlike.
Is it possible to repair a small surface "nick" on the front of my Kenny Hill Munich without having to refinish the entire guitar? The length of the "nick" is | |. It's depth appears to be very slight.
The face of that guitar is French polish which I can usually fix easily. If you want to send it here, we can deal with it, but I would suggest you wait until you are reasonably sure it won't happen again. Spend a few months getting your dings over with, get it out of your system. Then think about sending it to us. There is no harm in delaying.
What's so great about French Polish?
French polish offers one huge advantage. It sounds great. It allows a hand-made instrument to realize its greatest sound potential because it is very thin and very compatible with the acoustical qualities of wood.
Read this brief Tech Note: ABOUT FRENCH POLISH.
STRUCTURAL
Comparing the Munich model with the 640 length to the 650 length, are any of the other dimensions different between the two, or are they the same neck, body, etc. just a different scale?
The overall dimensions of everything are the same, except the neck is 5mm shorter. Remember the 10mm difference is over the whole length of the string, so half is above the 12th fret, and half is below.
Read this Tech Note: SHORT SCALE GUITARS
Does the truss rod harm the sound of the instrument?
Many owners don't know they have a truss rod until they need it, and fall happily in love with the guitar in blissful ignorance. Then when they need it, they are very happy it's there. I say listen to the guitar. Does it sound good? Fine.
I have a 2000 Munich Master Series with serial number 1589. I absolutely love the instrument, but it has a slight problem with back buzz for certain note combinations.
A back buzz happens when the string behind a fretted note is close to the same pitch as another fretted and plucked note, and it resonates sympathetically. You may need either a truss rod adjustment or a slight nut adjustment. For the nut, raising it ever so slightly with a paper shim may take care of it. Also adjusting the truss rod slightly can often eliminate a back buzz.
For directions and photos on how to adjust the truss rod, read the Tech Note: TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENT.
Also as a player, I know of certain chords (like one of the descending chords in the first Villa-Lobos Etude) that have such stubborn back buzzes that I actually adjust my left hand fingering to dampen the back string. One more detail to watch out for.
GUITAR SET UP
About the action and strings - the string height at the 12th fret is a little higher than I'm used to - maybe a 32nd of a inch or so. I'd just like to hear about your philosophy concerning the setting of the action.
At the time of shipping I normally set the string action a little higher than I personally prefer it, because some customers like it higher, and it is always easier to lower action than to raise it. Consequently, if you like it lower, you should only have to take a little bit off of the bottom of the bridge bone. You can do it yourself, or have a guitar tech do it.
The original shop action settings are these:
Saddle height 3.25mm (.130") on the sixth string, 2.75mm (.100") on the first string.
This is measured with the string pressed down at the first fret. These settings should be good for a pretty strong player. They can be lowered somewhat if you have a lighter touch.
The nut settings are done with feeler gauges above the fingerboard.
- First and second string: .052" (1.3mm)
- Third and fourth strings: .054" (1.4mm)
- Fifth and sixth strings: .056" (1.45mm)
I generally set the nut height with feeler gauges at around .054" from the fingerboard to the bottom of the string. This can vary according to the actual height of the fret. For flamenco I expect the 12th fret measurement to be around 2.5 to 3mm with the string fretted at the 1st fret. These are approximate and depend on the straightness of the neck. A little buzzing is expected as part of the flamenco sound.
WHAT STRINGS TO USE
I have recently purchased a Munich 640 2001 guitar. I absolutely love it! Such great quality of sound., but I am wondering if there are certain strings that would work, or sound best on the guitar. I've never played on high-tension strings before either.
I send the guitars out with high tension strings. The rationale for the high tension is I want to be sure the instrument can handle it. Actually the amount of extra tension in the guitar is minimal. Normal tension strings will work fine, maybe even better. I don't believe there is a direct relationship between volume and string tension.
There is a two way acting truss rod also, so any changes in the neck due to string tension can be accommodated. This can be adjusted by a guitar tech, or if you're good, by yourself. If you're going to use lower tension strings I would change them first before deciding to lower the bone or adjusting the truss rod.
We always put high tension strings on the guitar, but I don't have an opinion on whether that is the best choice. Each person finds out for themselves. I suggest trying a variety of string brands and tensions to come up with the right combination for your own technique and your own guitar.
I have used D'Adarrio high tension and Hannabach high tension. I prefer the Hannabach, but they are less available. They have a stronger sound.
SHIPPING
What is the best way to ship my guitar?
- We ship guitars in a hardshell TKL 7800 case for some added protection.
- The guitar in case should be immobilized. The TKL 7800 supports the neck only next to the heel allowing the head lots of room to move about if shocked. This can cause a crack at the heel or split the sides if the shipping box is dropped...sometimes with no obvious external damage to the box or case! We pack bubble wrap to support the head to keep the guitar from moving inside the case.
- Our boxes measure 9x21x47 which is UPS oversized 1. Inside we have cardboard inserts at top and bottom that *suspend* the case within the box. The intent is to separate the guitar case from the exterior walls of the box and to hold it stable. This can also be done with packing peanuts or even newspaper if you keep juggling the box as you load it to insure the guitar is stationary.
- Shipping insurance is cheap. We strongly recommend it.
If you need help shipping go to your local guitar store. They will probably have used guitar shipping boxes that you can talk them out of. Hill, Martin or Taylor boxes will do fine. You might have to cut it down to size a little.
If your guitar has a French polish finish consider the weather before shipping. Fed Ex has white trucks which is better than UPS brown in hot weather. Otherwise, each service is pretty good, though prices and delivery times are a little different.
PICK-UPS
Does the Hill Classic Crossover model come with a pick-up?
We are currently using the Schatten pickup, made in Canada. It is a fairly recent addition to the market selection and I have been using it successfully for a while now. (www.schattendesign.com)
My priorities regarding pickups are these:
- It doesn't hurt the acoustic sound of my instrument.
- It sounds reasonably like a classical guitar.
- It's not too complicated to install or use.
- It is reasonably priced.
The Schatten has satisfied me on each of these issues.
There is a limit to the volume that it will comfortably produce, but for playing solo or in small ensembles it's fine. For playing in a fully electric band it may be necessary to look for further solutions.
There are several other choices out there - B Band, Duncan/Turner, Pick Up the World, Fishman, Highlander, Schertler, McLiesh, Baggs, and many others. They are all coming out with upgrades and new products all the time. They come in lots of prices, configurations and complexities. I'll have to leave it up to you.
In my workshop I work hard to make a beautiful sound come out of a wooden instrument, and I'm going to be hard to please with an electronic guitar sound. I personally just use a microphone. It seems that many of the pickup manufacturers are much better at amplifying steel strings, or are trying to make the amplified sound bigger than life, rather than giving us a good, believable nylon string sound. Still, progress is being made, and there is a clear need for amplification for professional guitarists in today's world.
STUDENT GUITARS
Is the Munich Model considered a student guitar or a concert guitar?
This student/concert distinction is somebody's clever marketing term, and is not very precise. Most of the time this only refers to price. Our guitars are hand made with first rate materials, designs and craftsmanship, and with prices that often belie their true value. All of our Hill Guitar models can compare with "concert guitars" at much higher prices, and in fact they're often better. Even our "student guitars" are made to such high standards that they are used as concert instruments by many very fine players.